Omaha to Denver (Burlington Railroad)
Pikes Peak (Manitou and Pikes Peak Railway)
Colorado Springs to Lamy (Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway)
Santa Fe (including San Juan, Taos, San Ildefonso, Bandelier National Monument and Los Alamos)
Lamy to Grand Canyon (Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway)
Omaha to Denver
Saturday August 30th
Well, I’m just about to retire now, on a sleeping car on the Burlington Railroad train to Denver – I think the first time I’ve ever had a sleeping berth on a train. Am writing this in fact on the train, which is just about to leave.
Colorado Springs
Sunday August 31st
Spent but a short while in Denver, and then moved here. Wayside plants changing but now, quite a lot of white Godetias, and a few prickly pears appearing. It’s warm here, late eighties.
Pikes Peak
Monday September 1st
Took the mountain railway down Pikes Peak today; went up by car as part of tour. It’s pretty far up, 14,100 odd feet, above a table land of some 6,000. Was a little short of breath on top due to altitude. The top ought be known as “Scruff Summit”! Covered with very scruffy buildings, a rickety observation platform (as if it were needed!) Masses of cars and a jet plane provided for the public by the U.S. Air Force – in gratitude for development of jet engines done on this property. A road of course leads right up to the summit, which is above the tree line, very rocky, with the red rocks so characteristic of Colorado. The view is very wide, over much lower mountains, and over the plains on which the town of Colorado Springs lies. It was not very clear, though said to be the clearest this summer since July, probably heat haze.
Below are transparencies Henry took at Pikes Peak, as well as his rail ticket for the descent of Pikes Peak on the Manitou and Pikes Peak cog mountain railway.
Garden of the Gods
Monday September 1st
After Pikes Peak spent some time in the Garden of the Gods, a natural beauty spot with some picturesque red rocks. Scrubby oaks, pines and yuccas are common. Bought rather a superior Western style broad-brimmed straw hat before seeing the “Garden” – as a necessity! (Having, incidentally, lost my last beret some long time ago.)
Below are transparencies Henry took in the Garden of the Gods.
Colorado Springs to Lamy (Santa Fe)
Monday September 1st
Another line before boarding a sleeper, this time on the Santa Fe line to Lamy, for Santa Fe. The railway does not go through the town itself!
Am feeling again very sleepy after this hot day and a good supper, so will bring this to a close, I’m in some danger of drowning from drinking so much water though – there’s a superb little fountain serving cool but not quite ice-cold water on the station. Really mustn’t over-indulge, as I have an upper berth on the train!!
Henry’s journey from Colorado Springs to Lamy would have involved two trains. The first would have run between Colorado Springs and La Junta on a joint line used by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway and the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad. At La Junta, a major junction, Henry’s Pullman sleeping car would have been switched into a Santa Fe mainline train – probably The Chief – en route from Chicago to Lamy.
Santa Fe
Tuesday September 2nd – Saturday September 6th
I spent two days in the town, part of the time in the very interesting museums which dealt mainly with Indian affairs.
On the third day went on a tour to an Indian village called Taos, about 80 miles away, by limousine. This was arranged through my hotel, by word of mouth arrangement with an old chap who kept a gift shop – he had retired, and with a schoolmaster friend ran these tours. The schoolmaster’s son drove us on this one.
On our way to Taos we visited another Indian Village [San Juan, now known as Ohkay Owingeh] and saw some of the Indian women putting dough into one of their beehive-shaped ovens to bake same. This is only rarely done nowadays, most bread being bought, but this was a ceremonial occasion as one of the ladies daughters was to be married on the morrow.
Women baking bread in a traditional beehive-shaped oven made from adobe (mud and straw). Bread is baked by building a wood fire inside the oven (called a horno), letting it heat thoroughly, sweeping out the embers, then placing the dough inside to bake in the retained heat.
Taos is a Pueblo Indian village, which has existed for hundreds of years, built of adobe mud – mud mixed with straw.
The village is still lived in by the Indians, who charge no fee to visitors, except a dollar for each camera, which permits photography of buildings only. In order to take pictures of any of the people, a fee has to be paid to the person(s) concerned! Taos itself is an American Village, chiefly an artists colony – in fact I think there are more studios and shops selling all varieties of art from modern to Indian than in Chelsea SW. 3. I took a photo of the village plaza (square), a general view from across the road, it happened to include two Indians.
After I’d taken it, one of the Indians beckoned to me and asked 50 cents for taking his picture – I was so astonished I gave it to him, and then he composed himself for a close-up – which I suppose was his method of obtaining cash, because I’m positive now he couldn’t charge me for taking a general view with him in it!! I shall be very interested to see how these pictures turn out.
After a Mexican style lunch in Taos our guide took us to the Indian Village, where amongst other sights we saw some of the ladies re-facing some of the house walls with fresh mud. There is no piped water, nor electric light permitted by the tribal elders in this particular village. Many of the young people move outside it and set up houses in the usual American way. It really seemed to me a most incongruous situation, in the 20th Century for people, some of whom owned cars, to live in this way.
After leaving the Indian Village, I left the group to peep into a modern art studio someone had recommended, and on the way down the road an Indian beckoned me from across the street. So this time I shook my head, but he beckoned again and I crossed over – he wanted me to take his picture, the usual fee apparently being 50 cents. So having 18 cents change in my pocket I told him that’s all I had, – after a moment’s thought he agreed! Again I shall be most interested to see the results.
Returned to Santa Fe, and after supper was told at the hotel that a tour was to be arranged on the next day to a National Monument nearby (i.e. about 40 miles off), where cliff dwellings of Indians who lived in prehistoric times were preserved [Bandelier National Monument]. I had intended to press on to Grand Canyon – had in fact reserved a train seat – but decided to cancel it and go.
I arranged this one through the schoolmaster in a cafe near the hotel, who, hearing I was from England, asked if I know a Mr Dade at Kew? Yes I know a Major Dade at Kew, he is in charge of the fungus Collection!! Well, the schoolmaster knew Major Dade’s son very well, he was evacuated to Santa Fe during the war. And the priceless thing about this is that Major Dade wrote a fair number of letters to his son (then aged eight) and these letters were published by the University of New Mexico Press under the title of “To His Refugee Son” by H.A. Dade!! They contain a week by week account of life in Kew in 1940 and 1941, with the blitz and Home Guard, quite strong meat really for a young lad of eight. I wonder if you could find a copy, Dad? I read part of it that night, as the schoolmaster (Mr Malone) drove me up to his house and lent me the book for the night.
We returned via the bowling alley, and I saw an example of true American Democracy. “There is the Mayor of Santa Fe” said Mr. Malone, pointing to a chap sweeping the floor!! And he introduced him to me. I think the Mayor had a great interest in bowling, which is a popular N. American sport. This was a new alley, having room for 12 games – the game is really like skittles, these stand at the end of a long run and have to be all knocked down in one or two goes. The Mayor said the public liked the place to be clean!! There were another twelve alleys to be installed shortly. This alley was fully automatic, an example of perfect American ingenuity, after the skittles are knocked over, they are automatically gathered up and replaced, if some are knocked over the apparatus just removes those, leaving the rest standing! In Canada (Ottawa) boys are employed for this purpose.
Well the next day we went to see these prehistoric Indian dwellings, they were actually built in the cliff face, as caves one above the other. On the way we visited another Indian present-day Village [San Ildefonso], which was famous for the superb pottery. This pottery is made simply by shaping with the hands, no wheel is used. Most of it is a beautiful lustrous black, which is put on during the heating process.
The “old chap” himself (i.e. Mr Copman who kept the Gift shop) led this tour – he must be nearing seventy (pardon!), drove the hundred odd miles there and back, and informed us of all matters of interest. He took us up to the cave dwellings, up fairly steep paths on foot. In a way he was like the late Mervyn G. Palmer, having wide knowledge of geology, archaeology and Indian affairs.
Cavates (cave dwellings) at Bandelier National Monument. These were hand carved into the soft volcanic tuff rock at Frijoles Canyon by Ancestral Pueblo people between the 12th and 16th centuries.
On our way back we went through the Atomic City, Los Alamos, where the first atomic bomb was made which until a few years ago was entirely closed to the general public. All the property in the city is owned by the Government, nobody is (or was) allowed to live there unless they are employed by the government, with the exception of those operating necessary services I suppose such as shopkeepers. All the housing accommodation for the scientific workers is as I said owned by the government, and allotted according to scientific status. Thus senior scientists have the most posh homes etc. class distinction!
On our return some of us had supper together and I sat up until a somewhat late hour chatting with a lass from New York. Mr Copman’s wife looked after the shop – I omitted to mention that two nights previous to this his wife had gone on a trip with two English girls who were touring in an ancient car, she had invited me up to his home for a bachelor supper of corned beef hash and beer! Hence the evenings went and my letter didn’t get written.
Lamy to Grand Canyon
Saturday September 6th
Henry’s ticket wallet for his journey from Santa Fe (Lamy) to Grand Canyon on the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway.
Henry’s ticket for his journey from Santa Fe (Lamy) to Grand Canyon on the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway.
Grand Canyon
Saturday September 6th to Tuesday September 9th
When I got to Grand Canyon a dance was held in the evening, and I spent much of that dancing with a young lady from San Francisco, who was holidaying with her parents. Most of The Village of Grand Canyon is owned by the Santa Fe Railway Co. and Fred Harvey interests, that part of the combine that do the catering and hotels. Really they do it very well, because the Canyon is miles from anywhere, 50 miles from the main line at the small town of Williams. Accommodation is graded, a posh hotel, a lodge, and “auto cabins” – little huts for people with cars. These last least expensive – self stayed there.
Yesterday I descended into the Grand Canyon, which is 4,400 feet deep – just as deep in fact as Ben Nevis is high from sea level. The only way in is along a mountain path – fortunately barred, – i.e. too narrow and steep, to all cars. Mules do make the trip, but only about 3/4 of the way down at present, that costs £3, so I hiked down. The Colorado River is the colour of red mud, which is carried down in enormous amounts, thus slowly filling up the lake at the end of the river gorge, where there is a huge dam.
It was most interesting to see the vegetation at Grand Canyon: actually in the Canyon the temperature is about 20° higher than on top, and the climate resembles that in the Mexican Desert. Prickly pear cacti and desert plants grew in abundance. Some more of our garden plants grew on top at the Canyon, Gaillardias, Penstemons, Yuccas and Agaves.
Below are some of the transparencies that Henry took at the Grand Canyon. It looks as though he descended the Canyon from the Southern Rim on the Bright Angel Trail, going through the Indian Gardens (an oasis now known as the Havasupai Gardens). He crossed the Colorado River over the Black Bridge – the only crossing in the Grand Canyon at the time. He visited Phantom Ranch (an oasis and historic lodge at the bottom of the Canyon) and then returned to the Southern Rim, probably by the same route.
I remember Henry telling me that while he was in the Grand Canyon the wires started singing. He moved out of the way sharply and then there was a lightning strike. I also remember him telling me how disappointed he was to discover that cottonwood trees (which he saw in the Grand Canyon) are actually just poplars!
GRAND CANYON TO RIVERSIDE
Seem to have found little opportunity to write lately, and am now trying to do so on the train between Grand Canyon and a place called Riverside California – the movement of the train is rather worsening my handwriting I’m afraid!
At present we’re passing through the Californian Desert – much drier and more barren than those in New Mexico and Arizona. Very warm too, the train is air conditioned, but if one stands near an open window at the end of a carriage it’s very hot indeed.
These trains are very comfortable: I had another sleeping berth last night. I am writing this in the lounge. One has to travel 1st class in order to have sleeping berths: my round trip ticket is 1st + costs only about 20% more than coach class.
Train going much faster now, and writing almost impossible!
Bit more opportunity to write as train stops at a place called Barstow, about 2 hrs late – as I’ve found normal on The Santa Fe Railroad.
Most of the people on the train are middle-aged or elderly people enjoying a tour. Their leader has just come round and informed them sandwiches will shortly be served and they will be ready to start sightseeing as soon as they get into Los Angeles, around 3pm. What a life! They’ve already had a night and most of the day on the train.
The journey was a bit warm in places, the air conditioning failed in the train lounge, when an American gentleman (an eye-specialist) invited me to have a glass of beer with him in the lounge the thermometer stood at 99°, and100° when we left!
Saturday September 6th
RIVERSIDE CALIFORNIA
Arrived in Riverside as planned to-day, a bit late as the Santa Fe Railway has always been not less than two hours late on each occasion I’ve travelled on it. The temperature during the day was above 90°. It’s a pleasant town, full of palm trees along the streets and in gardens.
I was met at the station by a Dr Erwin, whom I was to see at the Plant Pathology Department at the University of California here, and spent much of the afternoon with him: to-morrow I shall see various other microbiologists here & also give an informal seminar on cellulose decomposition – this will be the sixth I’ll have given in the U.S.A.
11th Sept
Well, to-day was spent at the University here, in discussing matters microbial. I gave the seminar this afternoon, which went off rather well. I thought. Again the temperature rose well above 90° but cools off at night. The evening sky is beautiful, sort of luminous like the hottest of hot days at home. The town does suffer a bit from “smog”, believed to be due to a combination of air currents or car fumes from Los Angeles, fifty miles away. Shall move on to Los Angeles to-morrow. Have now run out of large paper! As you can see, I am having a whale of a good vacation. And I must tell you, Mum and Dad, of what I often think, how much of this capacity for enjoyment of living comes from your love. How I’ve been taught how to behave myself, and to like people, and to have an interest in all sorts of things and experiences. And taught too the good sound solid doctrines of the Church of England, which guarantee all of life.
So will close on this rather thoughtful note dears.
SAN FRANCISCO
Sunday 14th September
Many thanks for your letters which have followed me to Los Angeles. Have spent a short while here in San Francisco, a really beautiful city & much cooler than Southern California.
Postcard to parents
Your journeyings are improving our American geography – somehow that country always seemed to be left out of my school syllabus! Your talk of heat and sunshine makes me quite envious – we have had one of the most deplorable summers imaginable here. Rain and gloom nearly all the time. The “it’s all due to atom bombs” and the “weather is not what it used to be” sections of the community have gained quite a following!
Letter from David, 20th Sept
I haven’t written to you for two weeks because I was not certain where to write to, but I’m sending this one to Parkdale to wish you a very happy birthday on the 25th. I wonder if I have timed this to get to you on the 25th. What an energetic time you are having, and what a number of places you have been to. I’ve had to get the atlas out more than once and brush up my geography. I expect to see quite a lot of photographs when you come back.
Letter from Dad, 21st September
No letters available for tour beyond LA. Not known if written 8/3/18 – note at end of Henry’s list of Canada letters.