Russia
“Bring Nylon Shirts”
In early 1964, Henry was considering joining a tour to Russia. Although in the end he decided not to go, we found this fascinating letter from the tour organiser:
I have since heard from various Americans I know, who went on the same tour over Christmas. They all found it extremely interesting with both excellent guided tours as well as lots of free time for individual touring which is a new innovation. Also, all of the people who have gone highly recommend that one bring plenty of “trade goods” in the form of nylon stockings, woollen men’s and women’s clothes and especially men’s nylon dress shirts. In the Hotel one is accosted by Russians who pay very high prices for such items (and others which I will write about later as soon as I have all the information). The Swedish students here even ended up selling their overcoats etc. and paid for their whole stay by means of these transactions which are apparently officially disregarded. I will keep you informed. As things stand now, I will buy some cheap nylon shirts in my size to take along as normal luggage and if I do not sell I will wear them.
Russia Tour Organiser, letter to Henry, February 1964
A trip to Russia
Although Henry never made it to Russia, his brother David visited Russia in June 1964 with his lady friend Shirley (although David and Shirley remained lifelong friends, neither of them ever married). We have David’s diary entries from this trip, and two postcards.
With my Shirley to Harwich, then on S.S. Arnhem to Hook – a calm crossing.
David, diary, June 4th
By Franne’s coach through outskirts of Rotterdam to Utrecht, where we waited for additional passengers. Then through Holland to Ochtrup, just inside Germany for late lunch. Thence by provincial roads and autobahn to Brunswick for late dinner and night.
David, diary, June 5th
Along the autobahn again to East Germany and West Berlin where we arrived after a packed lunch, at hotel in Kurfurstendam. Afternoon coach tour of West Berlin through Checkpoint “Charlie” to East Berlin. Evening stroll with Shirley as far as Brandenburg Gate and back.
David, diary, June 6th
Morning stroll with Shirley to Brandenburg Gate again, ascending Victory Column on return. After lunch by coach along autobahn again to Polish frontier. Crossed after lengthy formalities and continued through Poland to Poynau [possibly Poznan?]. A late dinner and an even later exploration of Poynau.
David, diary, June 7th
A late start from Poynau due to broken bolt on coach. Rather a dull and wet drive to Warsaw. After lunch a sightseeing tour of Warsaw during a thunderstorm. An evening walk in Warsaw, and a sample of Polish vodka at the Hotel “Europe”.
David, diary, June 8th
Left Warsaw after breakfast and carried on to Russian frontier at Brest. More lengthy formalities before lunch at Brest, then on to the Minsk Road. Some more coach trouble (gears), rather slow going, and a late arrival at Minsk for dinner and night.
David, diary, June 9th
An enjoyable morning sightseeing tour of Minsk including a visit to a construction site and Museum of the First Congress of the Russian Social-Democratic Labour Party. After lunch on to Smolensk – but a long stop for repairs on the way, a very slow journey and a very late arrival.
David, diary, June 10th
A quick visit to Smolensk Cathedral after breakfast, then in two hired Russian buses to Moscow. After dinner by taxi with Shirley and Mr Shaw to city centre where we had out first look at Bolshoi Theatre and red square “Gum” [a department store] and changing guard. Returned with party.
David, diary, June 11th
In morning sightseeing tour of Moscow by coach, including a long visit to the University. After lunch a look round “Gum” then a trip on the Moscow River. An evening visit to the State Circus, then dinner and back to the hotel.
David, diary, June 12th
A morning visit to the Lenin Mausoleum and the Kremlin, including the Kremlin Armoury. A return visit on our own in the afternoon, and a short trip on the Metro from Marx Prospekt to Leninskie Gory and back. In evening to see students of the Bolshoi Ballet at the Palace of Congresses.
David, diary, June 13th
In the morning to see the Exhibition of Economic Achievements. A free afternoon for a last look round the Kremlin, a visit to St Basil’s Cathedral and the Children’s Store. After dinner at hotel, returned to the city and took train for Leningrad.
David, diary, June 14th
Comfortable night on the train and early morning arrival at Leningrad. A morning coach sightseeing tour, and a stroll around the city in the afternoon as far as Admiralty and Palace Square. A late evening stroll to the river and back after our party dinner. Still quite light at 1.00 am.
David, diary, June 15th
This is our last port of call in Russia. We arrived early yesterday morning, coming on the night train from Moscow, as the coach had broken down: we leave late tonight on the boat. This is another beautiful town and we are still having excellent weather. The nights are so light they don’t even put on the street lamps.
David, postcard to his Dad showing the Admiralty Building Leningrad, June 16th
A morning visit to the fabulous Hermitage Museum and an afternoon trip to the lovely Petrodvorets summer palace. After dinner by coach to join M.V. Nadezhda Krupskaya leaving Leningrad at 11.00.
David, diary, June 16th
A beautiful morning’s sail to Helsinki, where went ashore for a few hours. A one hour coach tour round the city followed by an open-air sandwich and coffee meal and a brief stroll. Left in afternoon for Stockholm.
David, diary, June 17th
A beautiful early morning approach to Stockholm. Landed for a two hour coach tour, then a stroll round the old town, Palace City Hall and harbour. Left in afternoon enjoying the long winding, island-studded way to the open sea.
David, diary, June 18th
We are now sailing down the Baltic on this smart and comfortable ship. The sky is blue and so is the sea – we have had excellent weather all the way on this holiday. To-day we have had a trip ashore at Stockholm, yesterday at Helsinki. To-morrow we spend an hour or two at Copenhagen then on to Tilbury where we dock at 3.00 pm on Sunday.
David, postcard to his Dad showing the M.V. Nadezhda Krupskaya, June 18th
All day on the Baltic arriving at Copenhagen in the late afternoon. Another rather hasty coach sightseeing tour of the main places of interest in the city. Left at 8.00 pm on a rather gloomy evening for London.
David, diary, June 19th
A beautiful brisk morning with a choppy head sea and bright sun, but a gloomy afternoon with a rolling beam sea.
David, diary, June 20th
Another rather dull day, with a calm sea. Docked at Tilbury at 3.00 pm and left by train for Fenchurch Street soon after. Met by Shirley’s parents there and went to see poor mother at Moorfields.
David, diary, June 21st
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